Behind the Scenes: Tierra Top & Trouser
Three years ago I met Mari, the founder Kakaw Designs, while visiting Antigua, Guatemala. We felt an instant connection. Now, we’re thrilled to release a collaboration that’s brought more joy, learning, and adventure than I could’ve ever imagined. The Tierra Top & Trouser set is more than just clothing; it’s a cultural exchange, an intentional spread of resources, and a tribute to the earth itself. I’m excited to give you a glimpse into the journey of bringing these garments to life.
The Vision
This collection was our dream come to life, both as a clothing collaboration and as a way to support Mari’s small business and artisan community. I spent nine weeks in Guatemala, working alongside Mari and her talented artisans, learning Spanish, and absorbing the vibrant culture. Our goal was to expand Kakaw’s sewn garment line and highlight the incredible craftsmanship her weavers bring to each piece.
Together, we merged our worlds, drawing inspiration from the jungles of Guatemala and the high desert of New Mexico. We combined traditional and modern elements, like indigo-dyed cotton and intricate weaving techniques, to create pieces that celebrate human connection and honor the earth. We taught new design and construction techniques, learning from each other along the way and pushing the boundaries of our skills. Many hands and many months have made these possible.
The Design
Color Palette
Natural dyes are truly Kakaw’s specialty. The bright colors Mari’s dyer, Fransica, achieves are remarkable, hues you can only get from expert knowledge.
For this collection, we chose a narrow palette of earth tones, focusing on depth and richness of color. This palette represents the perfect combination of our two aesthetics: my love for subtle neutrals and Kakaw’s signature vibrant pinks and turquoise blues. Finding this balance was a fun part of the design process.
Garment Style
We knew we wanted the garments to be flexible in sizing and to use fabric efficiently. Handwoven textiles are precious, and we aimed to avoid fabric waste. The Tierra Top is made entirely of rectangles (using the maximum area of fabric), reminiscent of the traditional güipil, but with a fitted look. And when we sketched a pair of wide-leg trousers with an elastic waistband, we instantly thought, We want to wear these ourselves! Mari kept the first sample and hasn’t stopped wearing them since.
Fabric and Brocade
The star of the show was the beautiful brocade panels incorporated into the garments. This brocade technique, a supplementary weft inlay, was intricate and labor-intensive, and I was endlessly drawn to its beauty. We used naturally dyed threads, which were brought to San Juan Cotzal and woven on backstrap looms by artisans in the remote highlands. These talented weavers created panels with unique motifs they had chosen themselves.
Our base fabric was handwoven on footlooms around Lake Atitlán.
The Production
We started planning this collaboration a year ago, and every step of the journey has been full of learning and connection. I felt incredibly lucky to be part of the entire production process, meeting the artisans and craftspeople who brought these garments to life.
Dyeing
First, the cotton threads, or hilos, were dyed in San Juan la Laguna at a studio run by Francisa, an experienced dyer Mari has known since childhood. Seeing the dyeing process firsthand was amazing. Watching the rich colors emerge was truly a “believe it when you see it” experience. FYI: If you’re curious to learn natural dying from Fransica, you can go on a textile travel with Kakaw!
Weaving
Once the threads were dyed to our specifications, they were sent to the weaving studio. We spent an afternoon delivering the fresh threads to the warping studio, where we watched dozens of spools being measured on a large warping reel. We then followed the completed warp to the weaving studio. Three artisans prepped and beamed on the 26 meters of warp onto a footloom in approximately 20 minutes, a task that would have taken me many hours. It was incredible to watch the professionals at work!
Meanwhile, the other threads were sent to San Juan Cotzal to be woven into the brocade pockets and panels on backstrap looms.
Sewing
Once the fabric was ready, Betty, our talented sewer in Antigua, worked her magic. We went through several rounds of sampling and fitting to perfect the sizes. When everything was just right, Betty completed the garments, and the Kakaw team did a final check before photographing and listing them.
Looking Ahead
What excites me most is sharing the finished pieces with the artisans who brought them to life. Each of the dozens of people involved should see, and feel proud of, the beautiful results of their hard work and skill.
Looking ahead, we hope make more colors and versions of these garments and bring them to more places as a celebration of our vision coming full circle: a collaboration that bridges the desert and jungle, spanning continents.
Thank you for being part of this journey with us. We’re so grateful to bring you pieces filled with intention, beauty, and connection.
Shop the Tierra Top and Trouser here.